The Patola Silk Sarees are one of the finest varieties of handloom silk saree from Gujrat. Patola means queen of silks and the sarees are woven with great clarity and precision making it well known all over the world for highly delicate patterns. Depending on the complexity of design and length, a patola saree may take 4-6 months for completion. Woven by master weavers on a special type of silk called patola silk, geometric designs with folk motifs and flaming colors are characteristic features of patola sarees. Each patola saree reflects the skill and imagination of the weaver and is exclusive by nature. Patan and Surat are famous destinations of patola sarees.
Way back in 12 th century some salvi weavers from Karnataka and Maharashtra arrived at Patan and with the patronage from royal and affluent people of Gujrat the art of patola sarees flourished. The sarees became symbol of status and part of wedding brocade dresses and from then on are regarded as best pure silk bridal wear. Depending on the pattern of weaving there are two types of patola sarees – Rajokot patola and Patan patola. While the Rajkot sarees are single ikkat and vertically resist dyed, the Patan variety is double ikkat pattern and horizontally resist dyed. The double ikkat type of weaving is perhaps the most intricate type of textile weaving in the whole world. Both sides of the saree have the same design and can be draped in either way making it unique combination of art silk sarees and printed silk saris.
Simple traditional handlooms are used for weaving and the dyes are natural colors, extracted from vegetable. Animals, flowers, human figures and birds give the basic design. Nowadays chemical dyes are also used to make some geometrical designs. Some ikat sarees are enriched with kundan and zardosi sequins for special occasions. The typical feature of the fabric is the brocade like heavy texture. The pallavs or anchals are elaborate and the dazzling borders are adorned with warm colors and rich motifs.
The double ikat sarees with motifs of parrots, flowers, elephants and dancing figures are primarily used by Jains and Hindus as wedding brocade dresses. Geometric and floral designs are preferred by Muslim communities like Vora as they regard it best pure silk bridal wear. Plain dark colored body with motifs of women and bird are special variety of patola sarees cherished by Maharashtrian Brahmins and known as Nari Kunj.
Patola sarees have evolved from the days of Sultanate and royals and confinement of Gujrat to be acclaimed as one of the finest piece of fabric and work of art that is a treasure collection especially for women all over the world. Handloom silk saree and khadi silk apparels from India has their own appeal to various class of people allover the world as they are used by various fashion designers as base for their work. It was very difficult to get hold of an original patola saree as they are woven by handful of weavers and are not abundant as Indian south silk sarees or printed silk saris. However, with the arrival of various online shopping portals, finding a patola saree has become easier. These portals have huge collection of traditional brocade sarees and special patola sarees with zardosi or kundan sequins and even offer matching blouse piece.